Gwen's bustle dress finale

Gwen is far less demanding than I am - she is putting up with a lot - and at least she hasn't changed size and shape during an extended make. My own bustle out fit is progressing in fits and starts but is getting towards its final form and details are being resolved - let me get the sleeves on and I'll tell you all about it.

Gwen, lacking arms, isn't too hard to set sleeves for, so hers is about complete now. Some areas may be changed but the garment is together, the lining is in, so we did the photo shoot to show the final dress.

Completed to date - cage, petticoat, foundation skirt, apron and bustle. This week's task was the bodice.  The idea was to combine the two fabrics used to bring the ensemble into a cohesive whole. Yep - cohesive.

The pattern used was an adaptation of one used for the fishergirl project - simple pieces, straightforward construction, clean lines and unfussy. The front was one piece with 2 darts each side, overlapping centre front for button fastening, centre back seam and side back panels, 2 part sleeves and cuff.  t\he plan was to used the pattern fabric for the side back, cuff and facings, but of course this changed. The front looked too plain so patterned revers appeared, the patterned stuff did not like tight corners so a satin lining appeared ( off cuts from my own bustle project).  Also a flirty tail was added to sit on top of the bustle- not quite sure whether this has worked or not.  The sleeves as you can see are a high tech re draft giving less curve on the sleeve top and elbow. The only part not shown are the flirty bits, semi circles, added onto the back and side back pieces.

last week

this week

This was Gwen last week -  wearing the underwear, foundation skirt, apron and bustle. The apron has become more gathered and a little higher - late night decision!   The bodice is to complete the outfit,  not dominate it. Pressure is well and truly on at the costume college so this has to be quick.  So selecting the pattern pieces was Saturday at about 3pm. completing was 11pm.   The fit is not as exact as I want - extra side seams my appear,  to tighten up the back and the forgotten collar should arrive at some point - totally, totally forgot.  I like the 3/4 view- it shows the simplicity of the shaping and lets the contrast in the fabrics speak for itself.  There is the usual lack of mini buttons- the ones I liked were 48p each -  more than I paid for the fabric - dream on.

As for mine - it has got this far - bit of a hiatus at the start of the week - lost so much weight that my corset is too big - so borrowing one that is a different period and shape - so had to put toile back together to check fitting was do-able. Of course all the pieces were already cut so it was fairly fraught. It did work so then tacked together the real pieces to check - some changes to the side panels later and it was ready to work..... Phew!

one morning tea usage!

Distractions - pizza for one of the late nights.
 Forgetting about an art exhibition and having to rush about to get stuff together - thanks, Steve.
  Chain came off bike 3 times - have figured out how to put back on with out oily fingers.
 Chased by a cat.
Washing machine is working!
The Tde F crochet bike I helped with is on display at Naburn!
Made apple chutney so house is rather - fragrant.
 Can not believe the course ends on the 27th. With an exhibition.  Which means no excuses- all has to be finished. Best get on.....
 

 

Victorian Bustle Skirt

Short week at the costume college - Bank Holiday and then a day spent with Jane sampling hem techniques ( brilliant to have such small things and such focussed things to do). So decided to share Gwen's progress with you instead.




 When last we left Gwen she was standing proud in her bustle cage and petticoat- since then she has acquired a foundation skirt,  apron and a bustle piece. The premise is very simple - remake the petticoat allowing for the fullness of the frills, drape a fancy bit in front and pleat high on the rear,  then scrunch up a long piece to hang down the back.  Decorate at will - opera curtains style. Simple!

The foundation skirt is to be  clean, unfussy, as it says, a foundation to build onto.  I've made this fully lined in a nice smooth and soft twill,  a warmer shade than shown in the photos. The pieces are the same as the petticoat-

pre pleating

post pleating

a flat slightly tapered panel for  the front, a tapered side piece, and the rectangular back with a dipping hem. The back is in 2 pieces to allow for a top opening and centre back fastening., it is pleated onto the waistband to give the shape at the top.  Fairly straight forward to do, but quite precise work.  She actually looked pretty good in it! And for once preferred the front to the back ( but didn't photograph it - just imagine its loveliness)







Met Museum example

Once  done it was onto the decorative bits, first should have been the apron -  this hangs in the front and tucks up underneath the bustle. So I opted to do the bustle instead.


nice idea but too tight

The bustle piece is a separate strip at the back usually caught up on tapes but at this scale I tried a slightly different approach. One of the diagrams in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 2 (p9) shows a complete piece laid out with gather points, pleating lines and folds marked out ( by Myra, Dressmaking Lessons II, 1888!)- this reminded me of smocking patterns so - 5 rows of lattice later-

any bottom would proud to wear this!

liked the over all effect but too dense and flat from the side so reduced the amount of gathers to let it bouf more and...


Having made this in the fabric it  struggled to hold its own weight so a supportive lining seemed in order closely fitting the skirt shape and holding the sides place. These were sewn right side to right side and turned out through the top edge.


Lining, showing top dart

Inside the bustle showing the pinches and  the lining.

I will admit to enjoying the smocking too much and over shortened the length -so  made a tapered knife pleated tail for it The tail is inside the bustle piece in the photo to the right - it is secured by the seam and will emerge as if by magic when the whole construct is turned out. I hope.












Then the apron -
This I draped on her, first on the bias and then on the straight grain - it sagged first and handled like cardboard second, but at least the pattern was the right way up. The idea is get long curving folds across the front - umm. 



apologies for the sun spots

 This seemed to use a vast amount of fabric- billows of it. Perhaps the fabric should have been washed first (see distractions) but it is beginning to give the shapes I want. The example has a quite short. heavily folded apron, on Gwen this looked like curtain swags, so hers is longer and more relaxed.
On hers the edges are bound with bias strips using the wrong side of the fabric to give a bit of contrast and to emphasise the curve. across the foundation skirt

 On the version for me the aprons are included in the waistband of the foundation skirt - for Gwen I quite fancied having a neutral coloured skirt to use with a variety of outfits. The apron and tail are now one unit - the apron is secured at centre back with half the tail sewn in place - the other half extends around the back and fastens with a hook and eye at the side seam. The skirt is now complete and the bodice remains to be done -  say it quickly and it sounds easy. At least the full scale one has the pattern done and cut!



Distractions -
making one for myself at costume college - still wrestling with the pesky corset - shape is rightish - just that I appear to be losing weight so it wanders. Big oops. More cake?
Green grocers on market have ripe fresh figs - yummmmmmm.
Date and walnut bread.
Might have killed the washing machine. Really BIG oops.
Which vinegar to use for apple chutney?
Why doesn't privet get the message and stop all of this growing? Cutting once or twice a year should be ample.