1795 Round Gown - the accidental dress.

This is a dress that never was meant to be -it is  an accidental dress; I couldn't think my way through a construction so decided to make a mini version to test ideas.
Sensible decision?
 Seeing as it wasn't meant to be happening most of the making hasn't been recorded.






 Moving on from the chemise a la reine-

my illustration for my chemise a la reine based on a
Gallerie des Modes original.

KCI round gown 1795ish

 it seemed right to stick to the drawstring idea but move it on 10 or 20 years.  The KCI (Kyoto Costume Institute) has a lovely light linen example - printed with carnations-  but as usual in these things a full 360 eluded me, so had to make up the back.

 The gowns have a lot in common - the drawstring reigns supreme and while the round gown skirt  has more fullness at the back  but is gathered all the way round.  The sleeve is still shaped and in two parts,  but I can not see clearly enough to see if the shoulder strap is still a separate piece or not. The  shapes and fitting, however,  are changing; the back is cut and fitted and the waist is migrating  rapidly upward.


The model I chose to make is a real hybrid - or transition piece. The back is panelled and  semi fitted, the separate shoulder strap is now part of the front bodice piece, leaving a diagonal seam on the back  It is still depending in drawstrings for fitting at the front and has a decidedly fuller back skirt. For mine the bodice and skirt are made separately and joined at the waist.



bodice pieces

 The dress began with the bodice - shoulder seams and bodice front first, because I wanted the neck complete to start making the channels for the drawstring. The bodice is lined and the channel is made by the stitching for the neck edge  and a second run of stitching parallel to the edge. The drawstring is threaded between the 2 layers of fabric and tied at the centre front. But where to attach the strings? Some seem to go all of the way round the neck, others just the front neck. Mine are anchored to the seam allowances for the front bodice piece so only that central area is gathered.  And then to lace ruff or not?  No - this is an accidental dress not a full production piece.

rounded sleeves!

cuff and top stitching along front seam.

The side back panels were then sewn in place  and sleeves made up.  These  were fun - I top sewed the seams running up the arm - it really did make them rounded tubes - they very nearly managed to stand up but kept over balancing.  A simple binding was added as a cuff rather than the pleated example on the KCI dress. ( colour - the one on the left is accurate - it is the vile berry cloth I've used for linings! The more attractive rusty red is because of the late evening sun)




With the bodice complete the skirt was sewn up and attached.
About 3/5s of the volume is gathered and stitched down at the back. This looked so heavy that I introduced a couple of small pleats  on the centre back panel - a bit counter intuitive but it did work.  The front section was loosely gathered and sewn on.  The  channel for the waist drawstring was made using the seam allowances - folded upward inside and top stitched. Not ideal  or elegant but it served. I tried adding tape covering the seam and threading the string behind that but the additional bulk prevented it from gathering evenly.

A spot of hemming and it was done.  As a round gown - it functions. As an attempt at an accurate round gown - oops.
 Do not like the waist - the raw edges should be buried between the lining and top fabric- it should look effortless. ( the desire to see the mechanics and bones of  construction came much later!). The back should be more exaggerated - a real diamond with points at each corner- mine belongs to a slightly later period.






Was this wise to make? Ummm. It has tended to reinforce the problem areas and to confuse further.  It has also highlighted the 'maternity' quality of the style. Poor Gwen does look as if there are only a few weeks to go!  I hate the feeling of dissatisfaction with decisions made, even compromises should be happy ones.

 " 'Never mind' said the HMIs. 'Never mind.'"

Problem is - now part way through making a full size version of a round gown for me and am getting that same sinking feeling......
Time to go and attack a bush in the garden - something is bound to need brutal cutting, slashing, sawing, or  at least hitting!
 Oh, Happy Sunday!