Ambition is everything.... frustration, insanity, comfort-eating, eye-strain. The trail of destruction has now reached the kitchen.
Distraction therapy = walking along the wonderful beach from Sandsend to Whitby in the very cold fog. (didn't work, couldn't see a thing and was so stiff afterwards that all I could do was sit and sew.)
The latest task is the problem - lovely Regency Spencer jacket from the museum. Really enjoyed drawing the details. Also enjoyed making a quick mock up. Now trying to do it properly. Emphasis on trying.
The detailing, the finish quality, the steepness of the learning curve are causing hassles. Some of it is stubborness, some is having too many large fingers, some is having too few. Some is forgetting to wear my glasses and then when I do remember having to undo and try again.
Beautiful purple velvet spencer jacket
Castle Museum York.
Can't vouch for the accuracy of the back - it was too dark to see clearly. There were ties on the band but exactly what and why I couldn't tell.
Also missing waistband!
Making this in silk (recycled skirt)- roughly 1/3 scale. The sleeve looks insanely long - it is. The end cm is lined and turned back. I still think it is long but they were meant to cover all but the fingers. I could make the lining a little shorter and see if that gives it that great rumpled look.
I feel much happier with it in the photos - all the problems look so much smaller!
Progress at last!!
Break through was yesterday at the craft club ( Acomb Library - chat and make mornings). I hadn't realised just what a burden it had become.
The details and quality of finish have been a total frustration, but I think I've worked out solutions without too much compromise now. Out with ribbon trim, and hello piping! Why did it take so long? I tried contrast- plain black- but it was too new and shiny against the silk.
The stiffening in the sleeve cap was also too strong- it's still in there but pulled apart so its more of an interlining rather than interfacing.
I have done the same with the fronts - the silk is too soft to hold the shape. - it is tacked in at present with the pale thread and may get removed later but it has made the handling so much easier at this stage. As for fitting the sleeve... the cap is roughly tacked and the undersleeve pinned to get the idea - may add a line of piping to give emphasis to the edge of the shoulder - but I hope to get this done today.
The tv presenter has just said "cubicle buttocks". I think I must find out why... now it's Monty Python and abuse of things Belgian ....This is the BBC for heavens sake!
Still alot to do - the other sleeve cap for one, waistband, collar, cuffs and fastenings. If I say them quickly enough it doesn't sound too much or even difficult, (mustn't forget the lining.)- perhaps it does. The individual tasks aren't so bad but working full time really can get in the way of the important things!
Haven't been able to do much this week but made a determined effort this morning! A lining is in, collar is on and both sleeves are on. All without the power of sweets, chocolate or cake (even turned down the offer of genuine Turkish delight).
Opted for a simpler collar shape - I need a decent body form to fit onto to get the shoulder and neckline sit properly, the current one is builder's expanding foam made in the kitchen sink and trimmed down with enthusiasm rather than skill.
The silk has distorted a little but there is still the waistband to put on which should help to anchor most things. The cuff details are a mystery. On the original it looked as if a section was cut and folded down with a loop of the flat cording. I think that with my current skills this may become clumsy - something simpler at this scale may be a better bet. Also the fastening- The smallest cover buttons I have found are 11mm ( same size as the sequin) but this seems too big, the doll's buttons aren't right either. Another trawl on net and local haberdash required. Lacking inspiration or options may mean re doing the front to meet edge to edge and resort to hooks - not a bad thing in itself, certainly appropriate.
Really want to finish this now- found 2 next must-makes - a caraco from 1795/1800 or the most beautiful pelisse from Museum of London - true love is a soft subtle blue, heavily decorated and reminds me of tinkerbell. I used to have aesthetic appreciation and some taste!! pintrest
Hope to post this spencer finished next week. It has been challenging and I know there are mistakes and I have so many more questions now but enjoyable? Oh yes!
But dangerous - just discovered where the scissors went - sat on them.......
It is done. One miniature regency jacket, finished (well nearly). The visit to the Castle museum that started the whole thing seems so long ago. ( 3 or 4 weeks!)
Analysis - my fingers hurt. lost the scissors - have stood up to check. Squidgy chair has eaten the tv remote. - Jane Austen works well as an audio book.
The overall shape doesn't seem too bad, could be more tapered to the band to give the triangle shape -
sleeves seem a little wide at the top and hang awkwardly unless worn.
The top layer is on the cross and the lining on the grain and they argue. The sleeve caps are the high spot - should have increased the depth by a couple of cm to show the fancy work more effectively - and the cording is back to front (oops). Having 3 layers at the sleevehead was not the problem I thought it was going to be but I did leave in a strip of interfacing to support the seam.
Buttons have been the downfall. The tiny doll's ones were covered and used on the sleeve details - it looks ok but they are so thick and hardedged that they still don't look like they belong. the 11mm cover buttons were a menace - I even bought the gadget- just don't go there! This brought on serious tantrums, and they are too big!!
What did surprise were the fun bits - the quick experimental makes - like the facing prototype - solving the sleeve cap questions, putting it together and it beginning to look someting like. I even began to nearly enjoy tacking- I have never done so much on one garment!
The major moans - wrong bits and pieces - need to locate sources locally or find alternatives. The time taken, and the time wasted. The fiddly finishing when the fingers were too big- like the cuffs. Some of the problems were lack of confidence in what I was doing, not being decisive with some decision making early enough. Should not have ducked the collar - OK the same style is on the next make but I cannot stop thinking of this as a Jane Austen bomber jacket. It also lacks the delicacy and the finesse of the original.
Using the Janet Arnold pelisse drawing as a start point was sound, but did cause some head aches - while she shows the pieces they are not as pattern pieces, not marked up, with seam allowances or instructions. Perhaps a commercially available pattern would have been safer and quicker.
I do need more contact time with the original garments, both inside and out, checking the how it is done not only what is done. Some of the museums seem very approachable and helpful so worth an email or two.
What has been great are the conversations this has started- the interest shown, and shared, and the insights and advice - I hadn't realised just how big this area is or how widespread. There is so much to learn...
Last known sighting of the lesser grumpy regency spencer?
It is the same colours as Connie's granite worktop you know...
Tinkerbell blue is next!!!
as promised the last vision of the Purple Regency Spencer With The Wrong Buttons ( must find an easier name for it) as a painting. I tried and failed to ignore that sketch of Jane Austen, I find her expression.... disconcerting.
Lacking my own model I've borrowed from several 1800/1810 portraits and fashion plates for style and pose. An oil sketch by Raeburn was the start - the pose is so school photograph it amused me. He looked up at his model but mine seemed all chin so I levelled the gaze but kept the leaning forward on a box idea. The quarter turn presents the shoulder which is where I wanted the focus to be.
The initial drawing has emerged looking very Renaissance - the exaggeration of the neck, the clothing detail- was seriously tempted to add a white ferret at this stage. It doesn't have the snooty expression yet, looks more sulky. The initial watercolour has changed it - the face is more reserved, worried and upright but alot more is needed on the clothing
I've tried to keep the face light and minimal - she looks a little upset by this but the purpose was always to show the clothing.
I do like how the clothing detail worked out - the lawn and lace looks lighter in texture and weight than the silk, and that has appropriate body and sheen.
Spot the big mistake? THE REALLY BIG MISTAKE. The toooo big to worry about, much too big mistake. Such a stupid thing to do!
Pretend it didn't happen, fussing would only draw attention to it.
Could I add a skirt to the spencer and call it a pelisse?
Back to sewing for next time. It hurts more but at least I can unpick.
Ambition is everything.... frustration, insanity, comfort-eating, eye-strain. The trail of destruction has now reached the kitchen.
Distraction therapy = walking along the wonderful beach from Sandsend to Whitby in the very cold fog. (didn't work, couldn't see a thing and was so stiff afterwards that all I could do was sit and sew.)
The latest task is the problem - lovely Regency Spencer jacket from the museum. Really enjoyed drawing the details. Also enjoyed making a quick mock up. Now trying to do it properly. Emphasis on trying.
The detailing, the finish quality, the steepness of the learning curve are causing hassles. Some of it is stubborness, some is having too many large fingers, some is having too few. Some is forgetting to wear my glasses and then when I do remember having to undo and try again.
Beautiful purple velvet spencer jacket
Castle Museum York.
Can't vouch for the accuracy of the back - it was too dark to see clearly. There were ties on the band but exactly what and why I couldn't tell.
 |
| spencer back. only the 'slashing' in the sleeve cap is sewn at the moment, the bottom edge should be trimmed with buttons fastening the openings |
front. Early stages - It really needs an arm in it to give form to the sleeveAlso missing waistband!
Making this in silk (recycled skirt)- roughly 1/3 scale. The sleeve looks insanely long - it is. The end cm is lined and turned back. I still think it is long but they were meant to cover all but the fingers. I could make the lining a little shorter and see if that gives it that great rumpled look.
I feel much happier with it in the photos - all the problems look so much smaller!
Progress at last!!
Break through was yesterday at the craft club ( Acomb Library - chat and make mornings). I hadn't realised just what a burden it had become.
The details and quality of finish have been a total frustration, but I think I've worked out solutions without too much compromise now. Out with ribbon trim, and hello piping! Why did it take so long? I tried contrast- plain black- but it was too new and shiny against the silk.
The stiffening in the sleeve cap was also too strong- it's still in there but pulled apart so its more of an interlining rather than interfacing.
I have done the same with the fronts - the silk is too soft to hold the shape. - it is tacked in at present with the pale thread and may get removed later but it has made the handling so much easier at this stage. As for fitting the sleeve... the cap is roughly tacked and the undersleeve pinned to get the idea - may add a line of piping to give emphasis to the edge of the shoulder - but I hope to get this done today.
 |
| detail of bodice and sleeve cap. |
The tv presenter has just said "cubicle buttocks". I think I must find out why... now it's Monty Python and abuse of things Belgian ....This is the BBC for heavens sake!
Still alot to do - the other sleeve cap for one, waistband, collar, cuffs and fastenings. If I say them quickly enough it doesn't sound too much or even difficult, (mustn't forget the lining.)- perhaps it does. The individual tasks aren't so bad but working full time really can get in the way of the important things!
op
Back view. Add top stitching the back shoulder seams to the list, oh well..... more dramas to look forward to.
Back view. Add top stitching the back shoulder seams to the list, oh well..... more dramas to look forward to.
Haven't been able to do much this week but made a determined effort this morning! A lining is in, collar is on and both sleeves are on. All without the power of sweets, chocolate or cake (even turned down the offer of genuine Turkish delight).Opted for a simpler collar shape - I need a decent body form to fit onto to get the shoulder and neckline sit properly, the current one is builder's expanding foam made in the kitchen sink and trimmed down with enthusiasm rather than skill.
The silk has distorted a little but there is still the waistband to put on which should help to anchor most things. The cuff details are a mystery. On the original it looked as if a section was cut and folded down with a loop of the flat cording. I think that with my current skills this may become clumsy - something simpler at this scale may be a better bet. Also the fastening- The smallest cover buttons I have found are 11mm ( same size as the sequin) but this seems too big, the doll's buttons aren't right either. Another trawl on net and local haberdash required. Lacking inspiration or options may mean re doing the front to meet edge to edge and resort to hooks - not a bad thing in itself, certainly appropriate.Really want to finish this now- found 2 next must-makes - a caraco from 1795/1800 or the most beautiful pelisse from Museum of London - true love is a soft subtle blue, heavily decorated and reminds me of tinkerbell. I used to have aesthetic appreciation and some taste!! pintrest
Hope to post this spencer finished next week. It has been challenging and I know there are mistakes and I have so many more questions now but enjoyable? Oh yes!
But dangerous - just discovered where the scissors went - sat on them.......
It is done. One miniature regency jacket, finished (well nearly). The visit to the Castle museum that started the whole thing seems so long ago. ( 3 or 4 weeks!)
Analysis - my fingers hurt. lost the scissors - have stood up to check. Squidgy chair has eaten the tv remote. - Jane Austen works well as an audio book.
The overall shape doesn't seem too bad, could be more tapered to the band to give the triangle shape -
sleeves seem a little wide at the top and hang awkwardly unless worn.
The top layer is on the cross and the lining on the grain and they argue. The sleeve caps are the high spot - should have increased the depth by a couple of cm to show the fancy work more effectively - and the cording is back to front (oops). Having 3 layers at the sleevehead was not the problem I thought it was going to be but I did leave in a strip of interfacing to support the seam.
Buttons have been the downfall. The tiny doll's ones were covered and used on the sleeve details - it looks ok but they are so thick and hardedged that they still don't look like they belong. the 11mm cover buttons were a menace - I even bought the gadget- just don't go there! This brought on serious tantrums, and they are too big!!
What did surprise were the fun bits - the quick experimental makes - like the facing prototype - solving the sleeve cap questions, putting it together and it beginning to look someting like. I even began to nearly enjoy tacking- I have never done so much on one garment!
The major moans - wrong bits and pieces - need to locate sources locally or find alternatives. The time taken, and the time wasted. The fiddly finishing when the fingers were too big- like the cuffs. Some of the problems were lack of confidence in what I was doing, not being decisive with some decision making early enough. Should not have ducked the collar - OK the same style is on the next make but I cannot stop thinking of this as a Jane Austen bomber jacket. It also lacks the delicacy and the finesse of the original.
Using the Janet Arnold pelisse drawing as a start point was sound, but did cause some head aches - while she shows the pieces they are not as pattern pieces, not marked up, with seam allowances or instructions. Perhaps a commercially available pattern would have been safer and quicker.I do need more contact time with the original garments, both inside and out, checking the how it is done not only what is done. Some of the museums seem very approachable and helpful so worth an email or two.
What has been great are the conversations this has started- the interest shown, and shared, and the insights and advice - I hadn't realised just how big this area is or how widespread. There is so much to learn...
Last known sighting of the lesser grumpy regency spencer?
It is the same colours as Connie's granite worktop you know...
Tinkerbell blue is next!!!
as promised the last vision of the Purple Regency Spencer With The Wrong Buttons ( must find an easier name for it) as a painting. I tried and failed to ignore that sketch of Jane Austen, I find her expression.... disconcerting.
Lacking my own model I've borrowed from several 1800/1810 portraits and fashion plates for style and pose. An oil sketch by Raeburn was the start - the pose is so school photograph it amused me. He looked up at his model but mine seemed all chin so I levelled the gaze but kept the leaning forward on a box idea. The quarter turn presents the shoulder which is where I wanted the focus to be.
The initial drawing has emerged looking very Renaissance - the exaggeration of the neck, the clothing detail- was seriously tempted to add a white ferret at this stage. It doesn't have the snooty expression yet, looks more sulky. The initial watercolour has changed it - the face is more reserved, worried and upright but alot more is needed on the clothing
 |
| Regency spencer portrait |
I've tried to keep the face light and minimal - she looks a little upset by this but the purpose was always to show the clothing.I do like how the clothing detail worked out - the lawn and lace looks lighter in texture and weight than the silk, and that has appropriate body and sheen.
Spot the big mistake? THE REALLY BIG MISTAKE. The toooo big to worry about, much too big mistake. Such a stupid thing to do!
Pretend it didn't happen, fussing would only draw attention to it.
Could I add a skirt to the spencer and call it a pelisse?
Back to sewing for next time. It hurts more but at least I can unpick.
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