This is summary of the making of the pelisse from the Museum of London. Some of the distractions and photos are gone but it should give an idea of the process and results. Please contact if you want more information. July 2013.
Sunday, 26 May 2013
regency pelisse.
Museum of London - pale blue silk pelisse from a trousseau 1823.
So much needs to be done... including this.....
got as far as making a little half version trying out the ideas. The general look is quite good but still....AAGH!!
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| museum of london 1820s. |
Not sure about the back skirt yet, the seams feel a little arbitrary- the stiffness of the fabric doesn't work for the back gathering- it doesn't have any drape at all. I think there should be more fabric in there so will have to try again. As you can see the collar was entertaining and I still would like more height at the back of the neck.
It was fairly straightforward to create - Janet Arnold was raided again for the basics and shapes of the pieces but historically accurate ?- don't think so. I am still working at the hand stitching - 12 per inch and straight is the current aim( impossible!) . I now have a full size pattern for a spencer which I will try out before making this up. With any luck some problems will be sorted - being me, I am sure I can find more!
scissor update - I know where they all are! - not currently sat on any of them.
Why my heavy cutting shears were in the medicine drawer in the kitchen I have no idea......
pelisse hiccups
Best laid plans and all that- trouble with full scale make.
This could not be allowed to put me off tooo much - so started a dinky one. I do not remember seeing or buying the fabric, I am not a dotty buyer, but there it was, all, fresh and ironed saying 'me'. Couldn't resist. Perhaps it is a magic fabric stash..... I wish!
Only started redrafting from the facing trial version yesterday morning! Cheating again - haven't bound the edges of the vandykes - these are lined. The sleeves don't look long enough now - on the informal image of the pelisse they are gorilla-length. I've gone with the same dimensions skirt as in the trial but added in an extra couple of cm width to the hem of the centre back panel. I wasn't intending to do this properly-properly but its coming together so sweetly that it is tempting to put more into it. Narrow ribbon couched on to give a suggestion of the decoration might be smart. Need to see how the skirt, collar and belt work - I don't think there will be much space for fancy things.
Even though it is giving grief I still adore the coat, I keep going back to the website and drooling.....
Scissor update - in full control of all major pairs. Found a spare snippy pair under the front passenger seat in the car. Left them there so at least one pair can always be accounted for. Thinking ahead.
I know just how she feelsThursday, 6 June 2013
pink and dotty
- Unfortunately no photo as the camera has just hit the floor and didn't bounce that well.
The dinky pelisse.
Still don't believe that fabric is mine, but it sews up so nicely. Whoever it belonged to, it is mine now!
I emailed the Museum of London about the insides and lining of the original but they weren't able to give too much more information at the moment -it is on display
" From memory, but I might be wrong, I think the pelisse was fully lined with a light, off-white silk. I also think that there were no exposed seams. I’ve just checked the conservation records which definitely mention skirt and underarm lining, and the dying of habotai silk to make patches (not the technical term!)."
" From memory, but I might be wrong, I think the pelisse was fully lined with a light, off-white silk. I also think that there were no exposed seams. I’ve just checked the conservation records which definitely mention skirt and underarm lining, and the dying of habotai silk to make patches (not the technical term!)."
( love this place, so accessible, and friendly! They emailed back so promptly and have taken alot of trouble for someone making a dinky dotty pink version for fun! and to think on some museum sites all I found was the opening times and admission fee.... what a difference in attitude. )
While this was happening I've added a skirt and put in the other sleeve so at least it looks like a garment now. Lack of brain think and I forgot to keep pattern pieces for the skirt - measured them out on the dotty and then sewed up.
Now I will have to do all that again for the lining! Paper copies I will do and then keep. I will. Promise.Not yet happy with the back shoulder seams - there seems to be too much fabric there. - wrong angle? Still to decide on the/any decoration. Do quite like the thought of couching but not of trying to making micro rouleau- ribbon or embroidery threads to the rescue. Trip into haberdash required to see what is available ( dangerous I know, usually come out with all sorts- a fitted kitchen once)
Collar is to be done - will prob line with white cotton like the vandykes or with dotty if I can make it fine enough at this scale.
Hopefully I will do most making this week end but ....
Now I will have to do all that again for the lining! Paper copies I will do and then keep. I will. Promise.Not yet happy with the back shoulder seams - there seems to be too much fabric there. - wrong angle? Still to decide on the/any decoration. Do quite like the thought of couching but not of trying to making micro rouleau- ribbon or embroidery threads to the rescue. Trip into haberdash required to see what is available ( dangerous I know, usually come out with all sorts- a fitted kitchen once)
Collar is to be done - will prob line with white cotton like the vandykes or with dotty if I can make it fine enough at this scale.
Hopefully I will do most making this week end but ....
Scissors are behaving well at present, the sun is still shining, things are growing happily- does anyone have a cure for marestails and goosegrass?
Sunday, 9 June 2013
pinky and dotty fights back.
1823 pelisse - Museum of London.
Found a very easy solution to shoulder seam crisis - put it onto a body! These seams don't work like modern construction - lying flat, folding in half seem to be awkward- they work better on a 3D form. And I have mini-body-on-a-stick!! Nice smooth lines and beautifully contoured. Until I take it off again.
The other crisis is the decoration - I couldn't find an exact enough match in satin ribbon or embroidery thread - This is an awkward inbetweeny pinky-browny-slightly purpley-maybe with a hint of grey kind of dusky pink. So came out with some organza ribbon, not quite right, too wide, but sheer. I have tried to do a line of ornament down the front several times now- never precise enough. I need to change ideas - contrast not same colour? What will go with inbetweeny pinky-browny-slightly purpley-maybe with a hint of grey kind of dusky pink? Antique cream? or thinking back to ancient history projects -slightly soggy coffee or tea stain? I still want the same feel of intricate and delicate (don't laugh) - major compromise coming up.......
Including the b/w shot just because I like it. So there. It was a tester for different ways of wriggling the organza (Does look upside down.)
Task list remains much the same - decorate, collar, line. Not a positively productive week in sewing world.
Must try harder.
Or go to a bigger haberdashery.... Ummm
Saturday, 15 June 2013
Pink and Dotty Progress.
The pink and dotty progresses. Managed to find a matching embroidery thread so could get on with the decoration - not exact but in the same vein as the original. Haven't decided whether to add the second colour and extra details - may just become fussy. The blue marks are the vanishing marker pen - they will disappear when I wash it.
Next steps - collar, facings and lining, belt, cuffs. Did quite enjoy doing the decoration so don't know if I should get on and do the belt and cuffs first or leave them til last as a reward.
Not sure about the length of the sleeve - found an image of a surviving coat dress http://pinterest.com/pin/313492824032104614/ the cuff is over halfway down the dress length. I could add a cuff onto the end of the sleeve - it will need a little reshaping but is do-able. The lining I wanted to do with coloured fine cotton but will settle for white - but I will try the collar with pink and dotty top and bottom, it is quite a stiff poplin so may not enjoy the small points and sharp angles.
Still like the b/w photos the best
Pink and dotty pelisse has the lining cut and partially assembled though the collar is being stubborn. I tried with the main fabric top and bottom and it just would not sit right, now trying with a lining underneath to reduce the bulk. Still not quite right – will try it on the cross and look at the centre back lie, maybe make a slight angle in the centre back fold rather than have it perpendicular. Good job it's small!
This is with collar 4 pinned on, it is sitting better but imagine the 4mm seam allowance at the neck and the points pressed out properly. Have a matching thin satin ribbon to edge it with- another decision to waver at. The back point almost looks too long... ummm
Found a light weight lining in the stash – described as “synthetic silk : vile berry.” So now officially I'm making a miniature 1823 pelisse to scale in inbetweeny-pinky-browny-slightly-purpley-maybe-with-a- hint-of-grey-kind-of-dusky-pink and dotty, with vile berry lining and tinkerbell pointy bits.
Inspite of this I still really like it. Can't believe I did the couching work – I think it looks so much better than the rouleau work on the purple spencer. - wearing the glasses is an excellent idea!
Saturday, 29 June 2013
pink and dotty lingering.
The pelisse is nearly there. As expected all my time has gone into work and yarn-bombing preparation. The thought of doing intensive stitching has put me to sleep more than once this week, and when that didn't work, reading editions of "La Belle Assemblee" for fashion tips from the early 1800s did the trick nicely.
The couple of hours I've spent on it this afternoon have been great. Sat by the window, flower garden buzzing with bees, birdsong, ignoring a week's worth of housework, weeding and lawn mowing..... wonderful.
The lining is in but one or two snags, not quite lying right, so will have to clip the seams closer and maybe adjust a little- not massive problems. Did a little decoration to the cuffs to finish the sleeve off. And the collar! This is first go, it seems fine - this I am not used to at all. A bit more clipping at the back seam allowance, then top stitching, and it will do.
So the current task list -
adjust lining.
top stitch collar and cuffs.
couching for belt - option 2 is flat ribbon.
construct and attach belt
hem - coat and lining.
remove stay stitching on sleeveheads
hook and eye fastenings to front
wash. Press.
To be honest it doesn't look any shorter than last week. More than a snowball's chance to finish before next blog?
Doubt it.
Never mind, it is not as if either of us is going anywhere.
Light relief. I shall set myself the task of another portrait wearing this pelisse now the shapes are sorted out.
Sunday, 7 July 2013
pink and dotty continuing saga... plus painting
I am going to be done for cruelty to snowballs at this rate. Still not finished!
Tasks done – lining adjusted.
Belt – couched over narrow ribbon, folded, sewn, tacked in place.
Looked at the hem.
Found some small dark hooks and eyes.( in kitchen?)
Decided that I need more vile berry coloured thread and that the haberdash is just too far away. ( dramatic chapter in book to read, then Wimbledon final)
So excuses this time – distraction therapy – working on a portrait with this pelisse – based on a Thomas Lawrence painting of Lady Templeton and son this time, getting carried away by the yarn bombing http://hippystitch.blogspot.co.uk
Saturday, 20 July 2013
ta dah! pink and dotty is done!!
done! It has taken longer than I intended, but comparing it to the original above and my initial drawings it isn't so far off.
Okay, this is me – there are things I would like to tweak and the fastenings aren't attached until I sort out the model or method to display it. ( Body-on-a-stick-2 was a bit of a disaster, useful if I want to do mutant zombie promenade dress or similar, the foam was rather feisty and escaped the mould in all directions.)
Vile berry lining has been hemmed and top stitched in place, belt is complete and the stay stitching on the vandyke points has been taken out. It has been washed but some of the disappearing marker has yet to disappear fully. It will get the message soon.
Even the portrait has gone as far as I want to take it at the moment. On this I still like the feet the best. I gave the face too much of a tan so it has lost the translucence I was after but the coat seems fairly convincing.
So, was it successful?
Generally yes. It is a high waisted coat with vandyke details and couched decoration.
Problem areas still bug me – the lining methods don't feel right – the shapes could be more exaggerated- the waist tighter, sleeves narrower. These are nagging issues rather than hide in dark cupboard and cry crises, but they do nag. And I haven't done the bow on the back - have it made but it is hiding with my best scissors. Search parties are being organised but the house is in a state at present, ready for a major chuck and sort. It will be found at some point.
The mini version doesn't quite hang right, the fabric is just a little stiff at this scale so there are awkward corners and not so much gathering at the centre back - is it better to be true to the fabric types or the look?
The making quality is improving and the decoration is better than expected. The learning curve is still being climbed. Research is fun and is stretching me to use the internet more rigorously. The responses and encouragement received still surprises me, thank you for that.
Biggest bug is the time taken – so many other things became important. It is time to move these tasks closer to the centre stage and put other things aside to make way for them. I need to be making my own deadlines and not accept excuses.
This is the end of the "miniature 1823 pelisse to scale in inbetweeny-pinky-browny-slightly-purpley-maybe-with-a- hint-of-grey-kind-of-dusky-pink and dotty, with vile berry lining and tinkerbell pointy bits."
All thanks to images from the Museum of London!
Scissor status update - 2 on dining table, buried under stuff from work needing rehoming
- 1 in work bag with crochet gear
- 1 - somewhere on sofa ( might get sat on)
No real change then.
I have only spent an hour and a half on it this week. - a lot of that has been looking time, thinking time and losing things time. With one determined effort all could be complete, the sun would shine, and little fluffy bunnies would rejoice.
So excuses this time – distraction therapy – working on a portrait with this pelisse – based on a Thomas Lawrence painting of Lady Templeton and son this time, getting carried away by the yarn bombing http://hippystitch.blogspot.co.uk
ta dah! pink and dotty is done!!
done! It has taken longer than I intended, but comparing it to the original above and my initial drawings it isn't so far off.
Okay, this is me – there are things I would like to tweak and the fastenings aren't attached until I sort out the model or method to display it. ( Body-on-a-stick-2 was a bit of a disaster, useful if I want to do mutant zombie promenade dress or similar, the foam was rather feisty and escaped the mould in all directions.)
Vile berry lining has been hemmed and top stitched in place, belt is complete and the stay stitching on the vandyke points has been taken out. It has been washed but some of the disappearing marker has yet to disappear fully. It will get the message soon.
Even the portrait has gone as far as I want to take it at the moment. On this I still like the feet the best. I gave the face too much of a tan so it has lost the translucence I was after but the coat seems fairly convincing.
So, was it successful?
Generally yes. It is a high waisted coat with vandyke details and couched decoration.
Problem areas still bug me – the lining methods don't feel right – the shapes could be more exaggerated- the waist tighter, sleeves narrower. These are nagging issues rather than hide in dark cupboard and cry crises, but they do nag. And I haven't done the bow on the back - have it made but it is hiding with my best scissors. Search parties are being organised but the house is in a state at present, ready for a major chuck and sort. It will be found at some point.
The mini version doesn't quite hang right, the fabric is just a little stiff at this scale so there are awkward corners and not so much gathering at the centre back - is it better to be true to the fabric types or the look?
The making quality is improving and the decoration is better than expected. The learning curve is still being climbed. Research is fun and is stretching me to use the internet more rigorously. The responses and encouragement received still surprises me, thank you for that.
Biggest bug is the time taken – so many other things became important. It is time to move these tasks closer to the centre stage and put other things aside to make way for them. I need to be making my own deadlines and not accept excuses.
This is the end of the "miniature 1823 pelisse to scale in inbetweeny-pinky-browny-slightly-purpley-maybe-with-a- hint-of-grey-kind-of-dusky-pink and dotty, with vile berry lining and tinkerbell pointy bits." All thanks to images from the Museum of London!
Scissor status update - 2 on dining table, buried under stuff from work needing rehoming
- 1 in work bag with crochet gear
- 1 - somewhere on sofa ( might get sat on)
No real change then.
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