This is one of the costumes made since the last blog. It is a little Victorian walking ensemble of short tailed jacket, apron and asymmetrical back overskirt over a polonaise style skirt. It was made to fit the cat so some proportions may be rather odd! It is based on a V&A 1868 promenade dress, drawn by Janet Arnold in Patterns of Fashion 2 ,but as the over all length is 9", the jacket is 3", many modifications have had to be made.
The jacket has a hook and eye closure underneath the fake buttons, but all of the shapes and seaming of the bodice and skirt panels are as faithful as possible. The elaborate cuff treatments were an adaptation due to scale but I hope it kept the idea of the original= they were certainly menace to do - I do need smaller pins and smaller fingers too. The flaps at the front of the jacket, collar and other decorative details were also sacrificed for reasons of sanity. The stand collar was borrowed from other extant jackets, it worked better with the cat proto-doll.
The underskirt is drawn up on loops sewn into the seams to create the volume - the problem was always how to keep the hem level-ish and convincing. After all of the fiddling on the apron and rear panel I prefer it without. The fabric is too bold to carry the details, it becomes confusing. Another decision to regret was the inclusion of the premade roses - they look too mechanical and perfect. And of course there is the perennial cry about buttons - they may be the right diameter but they are too thick! Some things never change.....
On a different note I am opening my work room as part of the York Open Studios event in April 2016- although the focus will be on my freehand landscapes these little costumes will be out and about - so come along if you want to see them or to chat!