This has been an interesting make, not just for the sewing. It has gone in several directions so apologies for the epic saga of a post. As you can see it is not an accurate copy of the original but apart from the proportions of the peplum, the fabric, the sleeves, the fastenings, and being adjusted to fit Gwen, it is fairly (vaguely)faithful. Well at least the skirt is. The real dress also had history and a fascinating back story to go with it, I doubt that Gwen will ever be asked to flee from a revolution as Mrs Seymour did. She sounds like an enterprising woman but without much luck in her husbands. I have tried to find out more about her and her husband as part of the general background research but with mixed success. The story, some sources and attempts at translation are at the bottom of this post.The NSCT pack went into detail about the condition of the dress, and the context of second hand clothing, its sock, as well as the history. The dress has been reworked and modified so often that there seem to be layers of stitching done in different threads and styles. It must have been an elegant garment once upon a time judging by the quality of the fabric, probably at least 3 incarnations ago. In some ways mine has done the reverse- it has been modified but often going back in time for ideas as well as forward.
Unfortunately the instructions have only really come together now that my version's made. This has been happening a lot, understanding is achieved after the event, one day I look forward to knowing exactly what I am doing before starting...... Some things were not possible at this scale so the fine details of construction won't bear looking at. Right at the start the cut of the sleeve had too be altered to fit on the fabric and the method of insertion is wrong. It should not have been done as one piece but have been attached at the bottom and then the shoulder 'strap' sewn in place - ( http://americanduchess.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/setting-18th-century-sleeves-18th.html explains it better than I can ). The tiny tails on the original bodice also proved a nightmare - the seam allowances were bigger than the tail itself so it grew to a manageable size. Surprises were the lack of boning, this is a soft garment, not tightly fitted or excessively shaped. There are no fastenings, it was pinned closed to the stays worn underneath, ( mine has hooks and eyes for convenience). And as for the stitching - the back seams were meant to be like the cat's whiskers diagram below, I tried it and opted for the 'not quite right whipped seam' stitch (last post) and have since decided that neither were the best option for this - the stiffest part of the whole garment were these seams - it could stand up on them! Maybe my stitching is too small and dense (first time ever...) so instead of being a time/labour saver - several redone-redone seams later it is back to where it started. I've left the sleeve seam as the whipped seam as evidence of the attempt. I don't understand the logic of this technique - why leave the ridges? why not just fold open at the seam line? The lining could still be slipstitched on to enclose the raw edges..... ummm
The skirt did go according to plan, It has a simple pleated front with a drawstring sewn into the side seam, running through a channel around the back of the waist to tie at centre back. The skirt is longer at the back than the front, (really the front is lifted at the waist) to allow for the bumroll. Although not as exaggerated as in the illustration below the difference between hip and waist gives Gwen the illusion of a more slender torso. The fabric design has also worked well for this modified version- the bold asymmetric pattern may well have swallowed the more delicate detail of the original. Some of these dramatic Georgian styles lend themselves to this, they balance tailored shapes with volume to create contrast in the silhouette. I still have a couple of mad designs left to play with - might be interesting to see how a more restrained classic Regency look works. Mind you with the development of roller printing by the 1820s some of their own fabric choices were fairly challenging. Not bad for a pillowcase though. ( am getting urges to make self covered buttons for the front, a couple on the back seams on the waist perhaps, at the cuff?)
This was billed as "A Dress of the Revolution" but is a separate bodice and skirt.
It does feel odd calling this a dress, dresses are one piece garments - top and bottom together. Apparently not always. When matching bodice and skirt together they equal a dress.What it would be when the top was mixed and matched with another skirt? The bodice followed the same kind of construction lines as a caraco made last year - what is the defining difference between them? Or could they be interchangeable?
And as for the illustration - have had some fun with this - took ideas from a different style of fashion plate - June 1790, Journal de la Mode et du Goût, ou amusemens du salon et de la toilette, and painted it to match the Victorian bustle dress illustration. The concept is good but did rather overexaggerate the mannered pose and face (she doesn't really look that evil first hand).Then the Liotard Chocolate Girl, as promised last week- with cupcake. This photograph hasn't translated very well as the pencil work is quite light and delicate. It may require another try, but the stance and the dress have worked out very nicely ( she does look a tad grumpy though).
The Seymour's story - The bare bones - Henry Seymour married his second wife, Louise Therese de la Martelliere, the widow of the Count of Panthou in 1775. The marriage had problems ( Mme du Barry) but in the early 1790s they had to flee to England and had their French estates seized. In escaping from Paris Louise Therese disguised herself in this dress which had belonged to the wife of the boatman who helped them to flee.
There is a discrepancy over her name which confused me -Louise Therese de la Martelliere or Anne Louise Therese -the wandering 'Anne' !- but what is clear is that the marriage, naughtiness with Mme du Barry, and flight to England all took place. I am still not certain if they left France together or if Henry was already in England, was the marriage was on again or still off by then? It is quite amusing finding the three of them listed on dating websites but I haven't found any portraits (only Mme du Barry), images of their houses, or references to Mrs S. after the dress episode. Mrs Seymour died in 1821 (or 1824) and the dress and story were kept in the family then loaned to Castle Howard for exhibition in 1992.
Sources-
NSCT fact sheet- (gist of)
Mrs Seymour was born as Louise Therese de la Martelliere. Her first husband was M. le duc de Panthou. She married Henry Seymour esq and lived in Prunay. Husband Number 2 strayed, unable to resist the infamous Mme du Barry, a neighbour, and the couple separated early in the 1780s. In 1793 Louise fled Paris in 1793, acquiring the dress as a disguise on the way. It has been kept by the family ever since.
Dictionnaire de la noblesse ... de France
By François Alexandre Aubert de la Chenaye Desbois" Louise la Martelliere, né le 31 Mai 1741, mariée, i. le 19 Septembre 1763 Guillaume de Panthou, Chevalier, Seigneur, Patron d Elcots, Saint Frefnay, &c. ( fils aîné de Gaspard 8c de Françoife de Croifilles) Capitaine au Régiment de Piémont, Infanterie, mort le 29 Août 1768, age de 76 ans, fans postériré d une ancienne Noblefle de Normandie connue des l'an 1070. Elle a épousé, 2, le 5 Octobre 1775 Henri Seymour en Angleterre, de la branche cadette des Ducs de Sommerset & alliée à la maison de France & d 'Angleterre "
My very rough translation is that she was born 31 May 1741.
1. Married de Panthou 19th September 1763 ( army man, old noble family) who died 29th August 1768, aged 76.( huge age difference!)
2. Married Henry Seymour 5th October 1775 ( younger branch of the family of the Duke of Somerset?)
Henry Seymour was much easier to find - on Wikipedia!
"Henry Seymour (21 October 1729 – 14 April 1807), a British politician.
Seymour was the eldest son of Francis Seymour, of Sherborne, Dorset. He was educated at New College. In January 1746/7, he inherited the estate of East Knoyle from his uncle, William.[1]
In 1753, Seymour married Lady Caroline Cowper (d. 1773), daughter of William Clavering-Cowper, 2nd Earl Cowper, by whom he had two daughters:
On 5 October 1775, after the death of his first wife in 1773, he married the widow Anne Louise Thérèse, Comtesse de Panthou. By this marriage he had one son:
The French Revolution led him to flee France in August 1792, and he lost most of his property in that country through confiscation. He spent the rest of his life in retirement at Knoyle.[1] Seymour is often stated to have died in 1805, but his monument in Exeter Cathedral dates from 1807.[3] By this time, he had disposed of his estates at Sherborne, Redland, and Norton, leaving Knoyle and Northbrook to his son Henry."
Knoyle - East Knoyle, small village 15 miles from Salisbury, Wiltshire. Better known as the birthplace of Sir Christopher Wren. Also interesting to note, Henry was resident in France while being MP for Evesham.... Seems a rather sketchy career- goes through several estates, (sub leasing Knoyle - bought by son after 1843)- probably most famous as one of Mme du Barry's many lovers (adore the notion of her being banished to a nunnery - so mediaeval!).
Seymour was the eldest son of Francis Seymour, of Sherborne, Dorset. He was educated at New College. In January 1746/7, he inherited the estate of East Knoyle from his uncle, William.[1]
In 1753, Seymour married Lady Caroline Cowper (d. 1773), daughter of William Clavering-Cowper, 2nd Earl Cowper, by whom he had two daughters:
- Caroline Seymour (31 January 1755 – 20 March 1821), married in September 1775 William Danby, of Swinton Park (b. 9 July 1752)
- Georgiana Amelia Seymour (31 Dec 1756 – ?), married on 27 September 1794 Félicité Jean Louis de Durfort, Comte de Deyme (4 March 1752 – 10 Mar 1801)
On 5 October 1775, after the death of his first wife in 1773, he married the widow Anne Louise Thérèse, Comtesse de Panthou. By this marriage he had one son:
- Henry Seymour (1776–1849)
The French Revolution led him to flee France in August 1792, and he lost most of his property in that country through confiscation. He spent the rest of his life in retirement at Knoyle.[1] Seymour is often stated to have died in 1805, but his monument in Exeter Cathedral dates from 1807.[3] By this time, he had disposed of his estates at Sherborne, Redland, and Norton, leaving Knoyle and Northbrook to his son Henry."
Knoyle - East Knoyle, small village 15 miles from Salisbury, Wiltshire. Better known as the birthplace of Sir Christopher Wren. Also interesting to note, Henry was resident in France while being MP for Evesham.... Seems a rather sketchy career- goes through several estates, (sub leasing Knoyle - bought by son after 1843)- probably most famous as one of Mme du Barry's many lovers (adore the notion of her being banished to a nunnery - so mediaeval!).
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