This last week and a half has been focussed on ladies' unmentionables - none of which should be seen in polite society. We are going to be making an 1880s style bustle dress soon so need the underpinnings to give it the right form. The patterns used were Norah Waugh's from Corsets and Crinolines - or at least they were when we started.
The corset was first, they are back lacing, steel bones - both spiral and flat steel, with a front fastening busk- this is to define the torso's shape but has the added fun of moving the squidgy bits in all directions.
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| Norah Waugh- Corsets and Crinolines |
First step - measurements of everything and then padding out a tailor's dummy to fit. We draped the corset - basing it on one from the 1870s/80s with 5 panels each side ( mine had to have 6 (depressing - have another cake?)). Once the toile was workable we transferred to coutil ( densely woven and sturdy) and construction began. The seams were done to the outside of the corset and the seam allowance was meant to be trimmed and folded to make a fell seam which doubled as the boning channel.
Far too simple - I ended up making each channel out of bias binding made from the coutil. The eyelet punch was fun but not as satisfying as getting out the hammer and beating them into submission, but at least the busk went in sweetly. When we tried this on the corset all but folded in half - so more bones were added in each panel and the back spiral bones were swapped for straight steels. It does now double as armour and weighs a minimum of half a ton. After the basic fitting came the binding of the top edge and cutting the bones to length- sore fingers- and sealing the whole thing off with the bottom line of binding.
I'm not entirely comfortable in it - it pinches under the arm on one side so am still making minor adjustments there which explains the unfinished lace trim- ( doesn't explain why one side has lace the top and the other at the bottom - ummm).
Bustle cage - this is the boned structure intended to give extra volume to the skirt.
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| dog agility or tent? It does look better the right way up! |
This is straightforward to construct though it has an awkward moment or two and some muscle is required. There are side front flaps that wrap around the waist, a narrow inner back that gives the tension to make the wider outer back steel bones bow. We started by sewing the outer back together and adding the boning channels with 1" tape as in the middle photo. The gaps in the centre are to make adding and removing the bones easier. The top two cross over and are put in before sewing the side seams. The side seams are a sandwich of the inner back, the front flaps, and the outer back. Sewing the second of the seams is the fun bit - the bones have to be bent so that the stitching lines match up- tack them into the channels, sew from the
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| inside the cage- the floor is the inner back. |
bottom upwards and use a zipper foot and it was relatively easy- The muscle is needed to turn the whole thing rightside out. The top edges of the backs are joined and the whole is assembled onto a petersham waistband- measured to fit over the corset. To finish the bottom a length of box pleating is added to the hem - unfortunately I have mislaid the completed image - will add later.
As if this isn't enough - or heavy enough - on top of this goes a totally frilled petticoat. Again a simple garment with embellishments. It covers the whole cage, softening the outline while giving extra, extra bulk.
Step 1 was joining the front panel to the 2 side panels and hemming everything.
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| complete frilliness and the placket opening. |
Next was adding the frills to the back panel. We went for 4 tiers of frill plus one at the waist, so made them 12" deep. The back piece is 40" wide so the 3 bottom frills were 120" wide and the 4th was 100" . Making the frills was repetitive labour rather than difficult, - 4 lots of overlocking, 4 lots of hem pressing and sewing, but the gathering was simple - we zigzagged over a length of buttonhole thread and pulled the fabric up along that. They were sewn to the back at 10" intervals to give 2" overlap. Once all was done the front assembly and the back were attached leaving a 10" opening at the left top. Then the mild concussion of trying to remember how to do a placket to finish the opening.
It was put on the stand and pinned to a
petersham band, matching the back/side seams to the seams of the bustle cage underneath. The back piece has two lines of gather stitching at the top and these are pulled to fit. The petersham is sewn in place and the whole goes back on the stand for the final frill. This is shorter, only twice as long and narrows at the ends. This was prepped as before and pinned from the centre back to the side seam covering the top of the last frill - mine went from 10" to 5" deep and only 80" long. This was sewn on - the industrial machine was a godsend to this,
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| pinning to the waistband and adding the last frill. |
the bulk reduced and the whole length of the waistband covered in white cotton tape to enclose the raw edges. Add on hook and bar fastenings and giant press studs down the placket opening and it is done!
The completed ensemble- I still have visions of looking like this in Victorian underwear -
think I'd be a good foot above the cushions in this bustle and the proportions are somewhat different. Need to find good opportunities for languishing. Answers on a post card?
Distractions list - Far too many sweets (Minstrels!) museums, rain, Pauline's birthday-( nearly party-popped a bemused delivery man) tea and scones at Grays Court (dead posh, right behind the Minster, optimistic wasp) sewing moles - embryonic corset-o-saurus. Will fill in the details next time.
Gwen is far less demanding than I am - she is putting up with a lot - and at least she hasn't changed size and shape during an extended make. My own bustle out fit is progressing in fits and starts but is getting towards its final form and details are being resolved - let me get the sleeves on and I'll tell you all about it.
The pattern used was an adaptation of one used for the fishergirl project - simple pieces, straightforward construction, clean lines and unfussy. The front was one piece with 2 darts each side, overlapping centre front for button fastening, centre back seam and side back panels, 2 part sleeves and cuff. t\he plan was to used the pattern fabric for the side back, cuff and facings, but of course this changed. The front looked too plain so patterned revers appeared, the patterned stuff did not like tight corners so a satin lining appeared ( off cuts from my own bustle project). Also a flirty tail was added to sit on top of the bustle- not quite sure whether this has worked or not. The sleeves as you can see are a high tech re draft giving less curve on the sleeve top and elbow. The only part not shown are the flirty bits, semi circles, added onto the back and side back pieces.
