'Gwendoline's moment of fame'

5 minute test piece.

'Gwendoline's moment of fame', or 'Remember not to use curtain weight fabric for small things'.

Gwendoline is a reduced scale Stockman body. She has a very definite, rather idiosyncratic shape but is generally most obliging, so I have tried to make for her this week. First steps were the basic block – making a set of general pattern pieces to fit. Not as difficult as I expected – I'm used to drafting with different shaped pieces, but having marked on Gwen where I thought the seams should be it behaved well. To test these pieces out I decided for some strange reason to make a spencer out of velvety curtaining off cuts, purple again. The spencer was to be high waisted, have over long and rumpled sleeves with high puffy top pieces, a stand collar, front darts, edge to edge centre front and centre back gathering at the waistband. Great, a nice simple garment!

Was it the 'Just So' stories - How the elephant got a long nose? Kipling?

Sleeves first – undersleeves topped with lining (the last of the vile berry stuff) to cut down the bulk was phase one. Phase two, making the sleeve caps, using the same pattern piece but spreading it wider worked quite well, added a band to stabilise the gather at the bottom of these. Phase three, lining, cut to the desired sleeve length. Assembly was quite straightforward – made up each, stay stitched the gathered sleeve caps to the under sleeve and then to the lining. Not quite sure what to do about the bulky seam at the top- can't clip it too close as the velvet unravels like fury. All went swimmingly, bodice went together easily and actually fitted. Collar looked good – then inserting the lining. Oops. Cut the pieces quite generously, didn't sew the darts in and yet it doesn't fit. Too small? The back seems too narrow? The bulk of the sleeve head seam has pulled the shoulder line and made the bodice tighter- but not by much. The length is short as well.  The velvet doesn't seem to have stretched. Curiouser and curiouser, said Alice.

At the moment it has a bodged second attempt in– similar problems but less dramatic - and will have to wait 'til next week be sorted out. ( week away rabbit sitting). New lining sewn in situ, hopefully just the back. Pah.

No, take the whole lining out and redo properly. Reattach the waist band and finish it off nicely dear. No excuses. PAH!

Never did like purple that much.

curious (nice word)

Also to entertain me next week I'm planning a dress for Gwen, she is not a good shape for this, the bust line is a long way from the neck, and is too smooth in profile, but we shall see if she can look Regency. Bodice pieces are being drafted, High waist, draw string waistband and neck (probably just gathered) and straight skirt. Not lined. This will be a simple garment, honest. Not lined. Except maybe the bodice. To sleeve or not to sleeve? 

Decisions about fabric to be made. Gwen is a deceptive little soul, she takes much more fabric than you think so choice is limited, do I use the green printed left over and not mind if it goes wrong or the nice purpose bought poplin and be determined and careful. Do I trust my skills and ingenuity or acknowledge the inaccuracies and bodge-it-ness? The green will be very tight to cut, no mistakes allowed, and be quite, umm, striking with the purple. Very Victorian. The poplin is lovely to handle, delicate sprig pattern, relatively expensive for a trial piece, but would look good. Double umm. Just checked – don't have any thread to match the green!

   The paintings are copied from a reproduction credited to the Mansell Collection but I have not been able to track it down - googling Mansell collection takes me to Nigel Mansell and all I can think about is the moustache. Not quite right for a delicate little regency dress, an interesting trim perhaps! Any ideas?