regency burble - nearly there!!

Haven't been able to do much this week but made a determined effort this morning! A lining is in, collar is on  and both sleeves are on. All without the power of sweets, chocolate or cake (even turned down the offer of genuine Turkish delight).
 Opted for a simpler collar shape - I need a decent body form to fit onto to get the shoulder and neckline sit properly, the current one is builder's expanding foam made in the kitchen sink and trimmed down with enthusiasm rather than  skill.

 The silk has distorted a little but there is still the waistband to put on which should help to anchor most things. The cuff details are a mystery. On the original it looked as if a section was cut and folded down with a loop of the flat cording.  I think  that with my current skills this may become clumsy - something simpler at  this scale may be a better bet. Also the fastening- The smallest cover buttons I have found are 11mm ( same size as the sequin) but this seems too big, the doll's buttons aren't right either. Another trawl on net and local haberdash required. Lacking inspiration or options may mean re doing the front to meet edge to edge and resort to hooks - not a bad thing in itself, certainly appropriate.
Really want to finish this now- found 2 next must-makes -  a caraco from 1795/1800 or  the most beautiful pelisse from Museum of London -  true love is a soft subtle blue, heavily decorated and reminds me of tinkerbell. I used to have aesthetic appreciation and some taste!!  pintrest
Hope to post this spencer finished next week. It has been challenging and I know there are mistakes and I have so many more questions now but enjoyable?  Oh yes!
But dangerous - just discovered where the scissors went - sat on them.......

happy(er) now

Progress at last!!

Break through was yesterday at the craft club ( Acomb Library - chat and make mornings).  I hadn't realised just what a burden it had become.

 The details and quality of finish have been a total frustration, but I think I've worked out solutions without too much compromise now. Out with ribbon trim, and hello piping! Why did it take so long? I tried contrast- plain black- but it was too new and shiny against the silk.
 The stiffening in the sleeve cap was also too strong- it's still in there but pulled apart so its more of an interlining rather than interfacing.
 I have done the same with the fronts - the silk is too soft to hold the shape. - it is tacked in at present with the pale thread and  may get removed later but it has made the handling so much easier at this stage. As for fitting the sleeve... the cap is roughly tacked and the undersleeve pinned to get the idea - may add a line of piping to give emphasis to the edge of the shoulder - but I hope to get this done today.

detail of bodice and sleeve cap.

The tv presenter has just said "cubicle buttocks". I think I must find out why... now it's Monty Python and abuse of things Belgian ....This is the BBC for heavens sake!

Still alot to do - the other sleeve cap for one, waistband, collar, cuffs  and fastenings. If I say them quickly enough it doesn't sound too much or even difficult, (mustn't forget the lining.)-  perhaps it does. The individual tasks aren't so bad but working full time really can get in the way of the important things!

opBack view. Add top stitching the back shoulder seams to the list, oh well..... more dramas to look forward to.

Regency dress - love it or.....


Ambition is everything.... frustration, insanity, comfort-eating, eye-strain. The trail of destruction has now reached the kitchen.
Distraction therapy = walking along the wonderful beach from Sandsend to Whitby in the very cold fog. (didn't work, couldn't see a thing and was so stiff afterwards that all I could do was sit and sew.)

The latest task is the problem - lovely Regency Spencer jacket from the museum. Really enjoyed drawing the details. Also enjoyed making a quick mock up. Now trying to do it properly. Emphasis on trying.
The detailing, the finish quality, the steepness of the learning curve are causing hassles. Some of it is stubborness, some is having too many large fingers, some is having too few. Some is forgetting to wear my glasses and then when I do remember  having to undo and try again.














Beautiful purple velvet spencer jacket
Castle Museum York.
Can't vouch for the accuracy of the back - it was too dark to see clearly. There were ties on the band but exactly what and why I couldn't tell.



 

spencer back. only the 'slashing' in the sleeve cap is sewn at
 the moment, the bottom edge should be trimmed with buttons
fastening the openings



front. Early stages - It really needs an arm in it to give form to the sleeve
Also missing waistband!
     

Making this in  silk (recycled skirt)- roughly 1/3 scale. The sleeve looks insanely long - it is. The end cm is lined and turned back. I still think it is long but they were meant to cover all but the fingers. I could make the lining a little shorter and see if that gives it that great rumpled look.
I feel much happier with it in the photos - all the problems look so much smaller!







Gradually getting better. Stitching is more even but still leaving it a bit too loose. Actually quite pleased with this one. Well worth sacrificing curtains for. Surprised by the similarites with the last one- the construct is not far off the same even though the profile is so different. Just when did the shoulder seam move to the top of the shoulder line? This does feel like a transition piece - looking again at the Janet Arnolds, the shifts in silhouette and then construction don't always happen at the same time. Fashion ideas were spread through periodicals, clothes took time and expense, provincial interpretations of 'high' fashion could well be toned down or customised. No national chains of Zara or Primark - standardised instant fix and throw away. And of course the age and tastes of the wearer/maker...... this alot more complex than at first glance....I shall go back to reading Jane austen and Georgette Heyer, and look for variations in character's dress sense.



 I'm finding the thought of making another in vintage bunny rabbit nursery fabric strangely alluring...... military jacket? riding habit?.....something masculine.



did get distracted by the good weather...sewing or drawing?..umm......